Rod Building The Rod Building Thread
- Thread starter Divad
- Start date
I will be building a 10' 4wt and 10' 5wt on this blank as well but won't pick them up for a couple weeks. I look forward to hearing what you think.
Did you get the guides from REC?
Divad
Whitefish
Would like to know your impression on the 10’ 5wt. That will be my next NFC blank, it was hard to decide between the 9 or 10’. I did a fair bit of asking around and found a group that built a few of the 10s. Pretty much everyone said to go with a 6wt line, and they all loved them.
Divad
Whitefish
I bought them from HFF Custom with some other odds and ends.
Kind of the consensus I have heard as well. I will report, but it will be a couple weeks. Holler through pm if I forget.
Wayne Kohan
Life of the Party
Thin your first epoxy application with a drop or two of acetone. It will penetrate the thread better. Also apply epoxy from outside to inside of the guide foot to allow air to escape that area between the guide foot and thread. If you start from the part of foot nearest the actual guide, you won’t allow air to escape out of that space.
Well I finished my first rod and I'm pretty sure I went through all the emotions/stages that a first time rod builder goes through: excitement, progress, stalled, anger, disgust, hate this thing, I'm never building another, maybe it's not that bad, I guess I did a better job than I thought, and lastly, another blank is on the way.
First off, it's a 7' 3wt that I built for a good friend moving to Maine (he doesn't know yet). It's built on one of Shane Gray's Rodmaker 24/7 blanks. It's a perfectly fine blank, although the top section isn't perfectly straight. But I guess that's what you get with a sub $75 blank. I used Proof's guides, a Shane grip, Struble hardware and insert. I also wrapped in silk which was probably harder than it needed to be. A couple things I learned.
1. Leave the tag ends on my wraps until I epoxy. This allowed me to snug them down and once I did this my wraps were much better and stopped falling apart.
2. The second section I wrapped went faster and better, but if i take that down 1 notch (speed wise), I'm pretty sure the wraps will be much better.
3. The first coat I didn't thin, and I will next time. Especially based off of Wayne's tip above this post. I had those bubbles as well.
4. I got some black schmootz in the thread on my stripper guide that I didnt see until the epoxy went on. Thats a bummer, but oh well. Clean the blank and inspect a bit better before epoxy.
5. I didn't realize until halfway through my 2nd coat that I could nip highspots with a razor and that helped a lot with smoothing the guides epoxy out.
I've yet to get it out to test cast, but the ole wiggle test tells me... well... nothing
. I'll probably get it out in the next day or so, at least to the park before I give it to him (still need to get him a line, I'll just my SA DT3 to test cast in the meantime).
Ultimately my biggest gripe about building is the idea of pre formed grips and purchased reel seats. If I'm building my own "custom" rod it feels silly to have to use off the shelf components on what are arguably the most "custom" aspects of the rod. sure wraps can be but I actually prefer extremely subtle wraps and often think clear wraps are the coolest. I'd love to be able to turn my grips and seats, but I have never used a lathe nor own one. But I do have friends that do so I may do that next time around.
Well like I said, I thought I would never do this again, but I this past week I ended up trading for a 7' 3" J Green blank that's on the way so I'll probably build that up, but I just want to figure a way to do something cooler with at least the real seat.
First off, it's a 7' 3wt that I built for a good friend moving to Maine (he doesn't know yet). It's built on one of Shane Gray's Rodmaker 24/7 blanks. It's a perfectly fine blank, although the top section isn't perfectly straight. But I guess that's what you get with a sub $75 blank. I used Proof's guides, a Shane grip, Struble hardware and insert. I also wrapped in silk which was probably harder than it needed to be. A couple things I learned.
1. Leave the tag ends on my wraps until I epoxy. This allowed me to snug them down and once I did this my wraps were much better and stopped falling apart.
2. The second section I wrapped went faster and better, but if i take that down 1 notch (speed wise), I'm pretty sure the wraps will be much better.
3. The first coat I didn't thin, and I will next time. Especially based off of Wayne's tip above this post. I had those bubbles as well.
4. I got some black schmootz in the thread on my stripper guide that I didnt see until the epoxy went on. Thats a bummer, but oh well. Clean the blank and inspect a bit better before epoxy.
5. I didn't realize until halfway through my 2nd coat that I could nip highspots with a razor and that helped a lot with smoothing the guides epoxy out.
I've yet to get it out to test cast, but the ole wiggle test tells me... well... nothing
. I'll probably get it out in the next day or so, at least to the park before I give it to him (still need to get him a line, I'll just my SA DT3 to test cast in the meantime).Ultimately my biggest gripe about building is the idea of pre formed grips and purchased reel seats. If I'm building my own "custom" rod it feels silly to have to use off the shelf components on what are arguably the most "custom" aspects of the rod. sure wraps can be but I actually prefer extremely subtle wraps and often think clear wraps are the coolest. I'd love to be able to turn my grips and seats, but I have never used a lathe nor own one. But I do have friends that do so I may do that next time around.
Well like I said, I thought I would never do this again, but I this past week I ended up trading for a 7' 3" J Green blank that's on the way so I'll probably build that up, but I just want to figure a way to do something cooler with at least the real seat.
Bambooflyguy
Life of the Party
Looks good to me! I’m sure your buddy will appreciate it, don’t mention any of the small flaws….he’ll probably never notice! It just bugs us builders…..remember, the fish don’t care! Check out making your own grips with champagne/wine corks. I use an electric hand drill chucked in my bench vise. You can also make reelseats with these corks too, just a thought. Keep building!
Nice job.! Silk thread looks nice but is much more difficult to work with. As for seats, I like Proof Fly selection. They have some attractive options. We all would like to make grips like Mieser's or those beautys Herkileez makes.There's limitless designs with thread work and color combos to play with tho..
The panic you feel doing your first epoxy work will go away with more experience.. Congratulations on a nicely done first build..
The panic you feel doing your first epoxy work will go away with more experience.. Congratulations on a nicely done first build..
The thing is, I’m actually not interested in the fancy grips. Take a look at Chris Barclay’s work where the reel seat transitions smoothly into the cork (not the ventilated grips). That’s the type of work I love. He glues the cork and spacer on then turns it all at once on the rod
Looks like a clone of my first build. I like it!Well I finished my first rod and I'm pretty sure I went through all the emotions/stages that a first time rod builder goes through: excitement, progress, stalled, anger, disgust, hate this thing, I'm never building another, maybe it's not that bad, I guess I did a better job than I thought, and lastly, another blank is on the way.
First off, it's a 7' 3wt that I built for a good friend moving to Maine (he doesn't know yet). It's built on one of Shane Gray's Rodmaker 24/7 blanks. It's a perfectly fine blank, although the top section isn't perfectly straight. But I guess that's what you get with a sub $75 blank. I used Proof's guides, a Shane grip, Struble hardware and insert. I also wrapped in silk which was probably harder than it needed to be. A couple things I learned.
1. Leave the tag ends on my wraps until I epoxy. This allowed me to snug them down and once I did this my wraps were much better and stopped falling apart.
2. The second section I wrapped went faster and better, but if i take that down 1 notch (speed wise), I'm pretty sure the wraps will be much better.
3. The first coat I didn't thin, and I will next time. Especially based off of Wayne's tip above this post. I had those bubbles as well.
4. I got some black schmootz in the thread on my stripper guide that I didnt see until the epoxy went on. Thats a bummer, but oh well. Clean the blank and inspect a bit better before epoxy.
5. I didn't realize until halfway through my 2nd coat that I could nip highspots with a razor and that helped a lot with smoothing the guides epoxy out.
I've yet to get it out to test cast, but the ole wiggle test tells me... well... nothing
Ultimately my biggest gripe about building is the idea of pre formed grips and purchased reel seats. If I'm building my own "custom" rod it feels silly to have to use off the shelf components on what are arguably the most "custom" aspects of the rod. sure wraps can be but I actually prefer extremely subtle wraps and often think clear wraps are the coolest. I'd love to be able to turn my grips and seats, but I have never used a lathe nor own one. But I do have friends that do so I may do that next time around.
Well like I said, I thought I would never do this again, but I this past week I ended up trading for a 7' 3" J Green blank that's on the way so I'll probably build that up, but I just want to figure a way to do something cooler with at least the real seat.
View attachment 102263View attachment 102264View attachment 102265
WolverineSRC
Smolt
Looking for advice on a rod repair and figured this might be the place to ask. My 9’ 6wt Scott Radian has a slightly loose handle. I’m getting the dreaded squeaking from the cork. The reel seat also appears to be slightly out of alignment. I have the non-fighting butt rod. Before I send it away to Scott (I bought it used so it’s not under warranty), is there a local rod builder that would be able to fix the issue? Is this a relatively easy repair or am I better off sending it to Scott? Thanks in advance for any advice!
See your down south of Seattle? Don’t know anything about down there but Avid Angler in Lake Forest Patk Wa has a rod guy they use for repairs and guide wrapping, etc. although I have never used those services I have been in the shop when some have turned in a rod of need and also received completed work. They all have been satisfied as far as I can tell. Think they have a guy who matches major rods in wrapping. Have no idea on grip but with a shout out to see? Avid Angler, Lake Forest, WA. Basically a mile north of city border of Seattle.
Divad
Whitefish
It is not a sure thing that when removing the cork grip you are able to salvage it. Heating the epoxy via a bubble bath or the oven method can also weaken the cork ring joints. I’ve only removed a few grips and one or two were not salvageable.
Then again it’s not too difficult to build a grip and the benefit is you can custom choose the shape and thickness, along with appearance.
If you don’t mind doing a little diy I would double wrap the seat and grip with two gallon ziplocks and rubber the tops to the rod. Then get a pot simmering a little before boil and submerge but not past the bag openings (goal is to not let water come in contact with the cork). Attempt to remove the seat and grip in 5min intervals. When removing the grip try to pull from the base of the grip to avoid separating the cork rings.
Then again it’s not too difficult to build a grip and the benefit is you can custom choose the shape and thickness, along with appearance.
If you don’t mind doing a little diy I would double wrap the seat and grip with two gallon ziplocks and rubber the tops to the rod. Then get a pot simmering a little before boil and submerge but not past the bag openings (goal is to not let water come in contact with the cork). Attempt to remove the seat and grip in 5min intervals. When removing the grip try to pull from the base of the grip to avoid separating the cork rings.
RCF
Life of the Party
Saw this on CL. Not sure if anyone is interested but...
seattle.craigslist.org
Fly Fishing Rod Building Equipment and Supplies - sporting goods - by owner - sale - craigslist
Selling high-end Rodsmith fishing rod wrapping machine from Pac Bay, plus all supplies (nylon and silk thread, fluor-grade cork rings, fly rod fluor-grade Struble handles, Struble and REC seats,...
I feel like I’ve seen this ad before multiple times over the past year or so. He states no price, asks for “reasonable offers”. Curious what he’s expecting?Saw this on CL. Not sure if anyone is interested but...
Fly Fishing Rod Building Equipment and Supplies - sporting goods - by owner - sale - craigslist
Selling high-end Rodsmith fishing rod wrapping machine from Pac Bay, plus all supplies (nylon and silk thread, fluor-grade cork rings, fly rod fluor-grade Struble handles, Struble and REC seats,...
