As long as those were sitting, I've come to the conclusion that rod building just isn't my thing. I do appreciate your help in getting me started so that Phil can finish....lolJust tell him to wrap it himself
The tip is always hard, if you can move your support up closer to the tip it helps. Get the wrap started and push it gentley into place and wrap towards the tip. Might take a few tries. Remember, just the tip! LOL! You can do it!Does anybody have a simple technique for wrapping the dreaded tip.? This 3# I'm building has the thinnest tip area and I'm struggling.
The tip top wrap definitely sucks! Like Bill said, support as close as possible and since mine is usually a small wrap, I cut some thread and use a small wood clothes pin for tension. On some of my Hotrodz I don’t wrap the tip but put Threadmaster over the end of the tip top.
Ding, Ding, Ding, you win the prize. I actually put my thread spool in my fly tying bobbin, wrapped it up the tip and whip finished it. Easy, peasy and looks better than the others I've done in the past. Thanks...It’s utter heresy, but I do a whip finish, like you’d do on a fly head. It makes it the easiest one of the lot. Of course, those of you who can only use a whip finish tool for that are SOL
Beautiful!Here's some of the thread work on my last of the Winter projects. This is a 7ft-3# glass rod. I used this barberpole pattern on all of the guides. It's not too difficult after you do a couple and is really just a trim band. The sawblade pattern is a little more difficult. I made several practice runs before I tried it for real. There's two challenges. Getting the sawblades to match is tough and getting the thread to lay down between the blades a challenge as the under thread wants to pinch up. I enjoy the learning process. I really like the pearl sparkle band.
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How do you avoid these air bubbles next to the guide feet?
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Ya, looks good. Silk turns transparent so any bubbles are back-lit. I pour my resin out onto a foil lined plate and along with giving it a longer pot-life it causes the bubbles to disappear.
You could do multiple coats of flex coat or whatever you're using. Start with a very thin first coat and get the epoxy to fill any gaps. Let it dry and then do a final coat. You can also use a heat gun, sparingly and get the bubble(s) out.How do you avoid these air bubbles next to the guide feet?
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