Crazy Idea or Good Idea?

[clarkman]

I haven’t found one with the densities “out of order”, but maybe that’s just poor sleuthing skills.

Some, sure, but not all.

Cool to hear I’m not the only one trying this stuff.

I can't remember where I saw it, but one thing I've tried a time or three, 9t a section of fluoro (20lb for me), then s shorter section of t14. Idea being that the t section sinks quicker. That, it did. I never took the time to get that totally dialed in though...mostly because I hated casting it on a SH rod. I'd imagine that with a TH rod, that would be far easier.

 

[Jake Watrous]

I can't remember where I saw it, but one thing I've tried a time or three, 9t a section of fluoro (20lb for me), then s shorter section of t14. Idea being that the t section sinks quicker. That, it did. I never took the time to get that totally dialed in though...mostly because I hated casting it on a SH rod. I'd imagine that with a TH rod, that would be far easier.

That’s an interesting thought. Thanks!

 

[O' Clarkii Stomias]

There are some Interesting combos made available with lighter than normal Skagit heads, combined with dual density tips and sinking polyleaders.

 

[DanielOcean]

I think its a cool idea Jake. Why the hell not. Yeah its simple they say, but I think that is a matter of perspective. There are actually some people in this world that think Golf is simple. LOL, and here I am watching a Mariners game with my glove on my head. Makes no sense but, if it works? Wouldn't that be really sweet. Would be cool to just try a new concept and a fishy climbs on. Would make your day.

 

[Jake Watrous]

I think its a cool idea Jake. Why the hell not. Yeah its simple they say, but I think that is a matter of perspective. There are actually some people in this world that think Golf is simple. LOL, and here I am watching a Mariners game with my glove on my head. Makes no sense but, if it works? Wouldn't that be really sweet. Would be cool to just try a new concept and a fishy climbs on. Would make your day.

It sure would. Thank you.

 

[Yard Sale]

Pretty sure you could cast a FIST(or similar 3D) line tied on backwards. Cheap easy way to try it at least...

 

[Mike M]

Hello Jake. Syd Glasso and Dick Wentworth were doing something similar to this in the sixties. So yes, it will most likely work. You could reference Trey Combs 1976 book; Steelhead Fly Fishing and Flies for more info on some of the shooting head designs of the day.

 

[Jake Watrous]

Hello Jake. Syd Glasso and Dick Wentworth were doing something similar to this in the sixties. So yes, it will most likely work. You could reference Trey Combs 1976 book; Steelhead Fly Fishing and Flies for more info on some of the shooting head designs of the day.

Mike,

Thank you for that information, I’ll check it out. Rivers and fish haven’t changed a whole lot, so what worked then may work just as well now.

 

[Jake Watrous]

Pretty sure you could cast a FIST(or similar 3D) line tied on backwards. Cheap easy way to try it at least...

It'd be interesting to try, I wonder if the tapers they're putting on heads nowadays would mess with it, though.

 

[Kado]

Love the idea of experimenting. I’d always be fishing a woolybugger otherwise.
One of my experimental flies was killing it for bonefish. Took a while to get the guide to give it a try. What the hell….no harm in trying…..
Unless you hung up on a rock in front of the only swimming chrome on the river that day : )

 

[Jake Watrous]

Unless you hung up on a rock in front of the only swimming chrome on the river that day : )

Never have I ever

 

[wmelton]

I've heard of people fishing parabolic sinking lines when streamer fishing big rivers for trout or smallmouth. Not sure what it would accomplish when swung.

 

[G_Smolt]

Have you checked out AirFlo's FLOtips?

Little chunk of intermediate line (2.5') with a heavy section on the fly end of things. When I was in my "messin' around with combis" time, I made a few for fall steelhead that were 7'-8' of intermediate and a little (<3') chunk of T material. Just make sure the intermediate GPF is the same or greater than the T material and yer good.
These fish really well in rock gardens, and now that I have re-read the thread I think that's what you were looking for with the original post.
Get a copy of Al Buhr's book and start choppin.

 

[Jake Watrous]

Have you checked out AirFlo's FLOtips?

Little chunk of intermediate line (2.5') with a heavy section on the fly end of things. When I was in my "messin' around with combis" time, I made a few for fall steelhead that were 7'-8' of intermediate and a little (<3') chunk of T material. Just make sure the intermediate GPF is the same or greater than the T material and yer good.
These fish really well in rock gardens, and now that I have re-read the thread I think that's what you were looking for with the original post.
Get a copy of Al Buhr's book and start choppin.

Will do. Thanks for the info!

I have seen those tips and while they look cool (the last time I bought lines for my spey gear heads and tips were mostly level) my idea is to have the setup go running line -> float or intermediate head (the new SA Skagit shorts are sexy) -> t-11/-14/whatever -> lighter tip -> leader -> fly.

 

[SilverFly]

Jake,

I like your thinking. Unfortunately I don't do a lot of river fishing these days, let alone swinging, so not much help on specifics there.

That said, I kinda get where you're going with this. And having dabbled a bit with custom lines, I'd suggest getting some hollow core braid and simply stuffing it with whatever recipe of T-lines you want. This would circumvent the welding issue completely since you'd only have to secure the rod end of each section with an external nail knot using lightweight braid, Kevlar thread, or similar thin/strong material. Maybe with a touch of adhesive to smooth it out. Same connection with the running line. This is possible because the hollow core tightens under tension creating a "Chinese finger cuff" which grips with increasing strength.

Or, just stuff with a thinner line of choice to create a custom running line that gives you the desired stiffness and handling qualities, but maybe with a thinner diameter to reduce water resistance (fish deeper, swing across current slower, etc..).

If you try this, the stuff you want is Jerry Brown Hollow Core Spectra . Not cheap but they do sell it in 150 yard spools. Not sure what weight line would be best for river fishing, but thinking the 60# or 80# would be about right.

Super interested to follow this, and thumbs up for thinking outside the box!

 

[Jake Watrous]

Jake,

I like your thinking. Unfortunately I don't do a lot of river fishing these days, let alone swinging, so not much help on specifics there.

That said, I kinda get where you're going with this. And having dabbled a bit with custom lines, I'd suggest getting some hollow core braid and simply stuffing it with whatever recipe of T-lines you want. This would circumvent the welding issue completely since you'd only have to secure the rod end of each section with an external nail knot using lightweight braid, Kevlar thread, or similar thin/strong material. Maybe with a touch of adhesive to smooth it out. Same connection with the running line. This is possible because the hollow core tightens under tension creating a "Chinese finger cuff" which grips with increasing strength.

Or, just stuff with a thinner line of choice to create a custom running line that gives you the desired stiffness and handling qualities, but maybe with a thinner diameter to reduce water resistance (fish deeper, swing across current slower, etc..).

If you try this, the stuff you want is Jerry Brown Hollow Core Spectra . Not cheap but they do sell it in 150 yard spools. Not sure what weight line would be best for river fishing, but thinking the 60# or 80# would be about right.

Super interested to follow this, and thumbs up for thinking outside the box!

What a great suggestion! I'd never thought about putting sleeves over frankenlines, and I've got a remnant spool of that stuff sitting in the garage.

Thanks!

 

[SilverFly]

What a great suggestion! I'd never thought about putting sleeves over frankenlines, and I've got a remnant spool of that stuff sitting in the garage.

Thanks!

Not my idea but you're welcome.

One potential issue that comes to mind is hinging at the T-line joints. If it is a problem, thinking I'd try to (somehow) taper the T-line ends so they overlap (razor blade, sandpaper,...?) Bonding with adhesive would probably help, but might be better to avoid glue completely if possible to allow changing out segements without destroying the braid. I dunno, hopefully somebody whose actually done this will chime in.

 

[Jake Watrous]

Not my idea but you're welcome.

One potential issue that comes to mind is hinging at the T-line joints. If it is a problem, thinking I'd try to (somehow) taper the T-line ends so they overlap (razor blade, sandpaper,...?) Bonding with adhesive would probably help, but might be better to avoid glue completely if possible to allow changing out segements without destroying the braid. I dunno, hopefully somebody whose actually done this will chime in.

Almost anything would beat the double uni I typically use.

 

[Yard Sale]

Enjoying watching this thread. Always fun to think outside the box!

For down and dirty loops in T material(or really any line) you can just double it over and throw a nail knot with 10 or 12 pound maxima. Probably dont want to do several of those in a chain, but for each end that works fine.

 

[Styskal]

After spending thousands of dollars on various lines to achieve what I wanted. I quickly became proficient at modifying lines to fit my needs. Splicing, welding, lap splicing ect. That was along time ago. Strange enough I still do that. After many failed attempts you narrow down what works and then learn why it works.

That is about the time it really starts to get fun and you become a line geek. Sink tips are fair game and there is much experimenting to be done. The one thing I won't sacrifice when experimenting is turn over, and also do I enjoy casting this thing? Sink tips seemed to have got pretty short. Likely has to do with short heads and a vertical presentation with weighted flies. Its effective for sure in the right circumstances. And it can also be limiting at times as well. For a few years I used long tips up to 20ft. Old SA type 4 10wt was the go to. It fished the fly slower and did not hang up as much as one would think. Infact 20ft of t-11 can be awsome for kings on the right river over kill for steelhead. Lots to learn still.