First off, I know I’ll receive at least 3 demerits for handing in my homework/report nearly two months late but it is what it is. At the 3/4 mark of a century, after the third hip replacement (sorry revision per Dr Demento) I decided having not seen Patagonia, and specifically Buenos Aires in over 30 years I said to self ….. why not? Why worry, at 75 one has a shitload of excuses, not reasons but excuses still, therefore I had outs in case of the proverbial issues that arise in a make it up as you go international fishing/travel trip. My kind wife of 55 years said seriously…”this sounds like that movie The Hundred Year Old Man Who Crawled Out the Window and Disappeared…”. I said yeah, kinda and I hope I have as much fun. Hilarious movie BTW, Swedish I believe.
So knowing some individuals who work the area and having that trusty new tool called the internet, along with my Delta and Hilton apps I went to work and came up with a plan. Remembering that @Northern was headed in the direction prior to my departure I reached out and asked if they would walk point and notify me of any nefarious goings on while they were there. A “Will do!” message was received in reply. Perfect, I thought. We’ll touch on that in a bit.
Having told three of the manufacturers and dealers I deliver boats for that I would be MIA for about three weeks in late Feb early March, I received a WTF?, a Why?, and one Where’s That? The reason being that customers who spend $6 Figures the previous year are expecting their Christmas presents, especially in the SE, at this precise moment, delivered to their doorstep wherever that may be along with a check or $$ transfer headed back to point of FOB. I digress, sorry.
Eliminating as much possible mayhem as I could I drove to Atlanta, booked a room, yes Delta/Hilton and no I’m not affiliated in any way except they’ve been my go-to partners for many years……like my wife, only slightly less costly. So late that afternoon of departure for a 9 PM lift off my cell pings…..a message from Delta….”Your Flight XXX Has Been Cancelled” and you have been rescheduled for tomorrow on flight xxx….” OK I say to myself and go to my trusty Hilton app and grab one of the last rooms in a 300+ room hotel for the night. Total time from notification to re-book is maybe 3.5 minutes. Both Delta and Hilton.
Due to an Airline Workers strike in Argentina for the following day Delta has pushed their flights forward. This had been rumored and not unexpected due to the somewhat seemingly dislike of their new President Buddy Hackett II. Now the fun begins. I group text a person in California and a person in Argentina and in less than 5 minutes the logistics are rearranged and confirmed. I then say to myself, why not, what’s wrong with a couple extra days in BA and go back to my Delta app change my return flight for two days later and book a couple nights in Porto Maduro section of BA. Having a couple million Hilton points in hand is money in the bank. If you haven’t tried this Internet thingee you should. It’s cool.
I am picked up at the airport in Esquel bu my driver, guide, and music director (later on that) and finally arrive in the once desolate town of Rio Pico, Chubut Province of Argentina at 10 PM, -2 hours from home time, and it’s dark. No shit! Really? Re-energized by a 30 minute nap on the flight from BA to Esquel I’m ready to roll. What I did notice on the way south from Esquel that Rt 40 was paved all the way and also Rt 62[?] was fully paved from Rt 40 to downtown Rio Pico. Unlike the last time. My teeth remember. I had decided that the Rio Pico area would be home because the last time I was there was 1990 or 91 and arrived there by driving north on Ruta 7 from Coyhaique Chile, north past Manihuales, up the Cisnes River valley to Tapera, once known a La Tapera, and across the pampas to Rt 40 and north in Argentina. Stayed a night in Gobernador Costa at a combination Hotel/Jail/Restaurant where your vehicle was stored in the courtyard and your “room” was a cell, unlocked of course. I remember the Cook, Bailiff, Bartender, Tour Guide person was hilarious that night specifically saying in Spanish: Esperamos que su vehículo duerma bien esta noche.…translated to hope your truck is fine tonight and still there in the morning. Loved the humor.
I’ve been a lot of places in this world, some by design, some sent to by a government who has lost its way from time to time but one of the things I’ve always noticed, more so now than when I was younger was that environment defines the populace no matter how much we try the opposite. I think that is one of the prime reasons why I follow @Cabezon and his posts on flora and fauna. Damn, it and he, is so interesting. Little did I know he was just over the hill on the other side of Lago Palena/Vinttner from where I was located. I felt bad that his weather wasn’t perfect but that’s Chile at times. That specifically is one of the reasons for no trip report for a while as his are sometimes right out of NatGeo.
Patagonia is so big, the Andes are seemingly in your lap and the air so clean and the lane goes on forever. And the people have smiles right out Vanity Fair when acknowledged. OK, end of intro.
Besides the fish, which sometimes are secondary to me when traveling, I wanted to see what changed, beside the influx of us, the American travelogue experts (humor by design).
Downtown Rio Pico 1990?
Downtown Rio Pico 2024:
And my two favorite “rock formations”:
1990
2024:
What I’d always wondered about the rocks was their three dimensional rhomboid shape meaning at one time there must have been under extreme heat and force to have their structure rearranged in that manner. ??? Anyone?
In the 90s we thought we’d take a closer look but a fence and 3 large bulls enclosed decided that option for us was a no go.
The fishing was a combination spring creek, river wading, and lake via rafts, my preference in that order. The two spring creeks that were fished were interesting. Let’s just say they were not “manicured” as some are in the world. Add a 20kt wind onto your casting shoulder, regardless of which way you were facing, and cast to a 3x3’ window on your side of the creek 40’ to 50’ away in some cases and you get it. Results? Let’s say bushes trees 25 and me 12 at the end of six innings. After which it opened up a bit more and I rallied but in the end the bush/tree team won. No images for me but driver guide music director kept taking them. More on that later.
Rivers: A tributary of the Rio Pico, the aril Pico and the Corcovado walk and wade though in the right season I’d float the Corcovado for a solid month if I could.
Rio Pico and Tributary not in that order possibly:
All pretty fish, mostly browns, but we stumbled on a section of the tributary like a jungle with very very narrow lanes that hel at least 3 browns of 30”+ length and spent about 2 hours fishing over them. Fishing a #4 Chubby Chernobyl on a 1X tippet was a hoot using steeple and roll and B&A casts. The music director warned me to back off the drag and if hooked up just lean out point the rod at the fish and get set for a long strategic battle. That never happened as puny 20”-22” browns would come out of nowhere to grab lunch and run. They were fun but we’re actually the reason we knew the big boys were BIG BOYS or GIRLS. I didn’t want to fail to mention that getting into the trib was nearly a rappelling effort. Wished the Music Man had warned me as I would have backpacked my waders and boots in on my back. While I’m at it, Argentina has or at least some parts have a No Felt Sole wading boots restriction. Fine!!! Make the restriction up to the age of 65 and let us geriatrics use our felt sole boats we’ve been using for 50 years. My Weinbrenners have served me well for 20+ years and two resolves. “But they’re hard to get on…the thick leather….” people whine. Soak ‘em in a bucket or pail of water for an hour prior and you’ll be fine!
Streamer fishing (YEAH!) on lakes is interesting and it’s amazing how the wind is both your friend and a fiend. One of the lakes was about an hour drive, closer to Chile than Rio Pico in a setting out of Conde’ Nast. First 2 hours 15kt wind out of the NE, sorry @Cabezon that was probably the beginning of your scuba like fishing, and the fishing for large bows (90%) and browns(10% math major) was good to very good then the little white caps diminished into nowhere, the wind died down, and the catching went south. Ding ding…time to eat. Good meal on the beach followed by 45” siesta then back at it. Wind backup as on que only from the SW this time so we move up lake a bit and we were back attached to fatties, again ‘bows. Flies were basic #6 Orange Beadhead black bodied leeches stripped fast, which fishing the ocean here is not a problem. One fish in particular drew the interest of the chauffeur as it was a female rainbow, obviously with eggs of about 16” or so, a small fish compared to others. He netted the fish looked at it and stripped the eggs back into the water saying the fish’ growth rate would double over the course of the next year at spawning by doing that if it wasn’t eaten by something twice its size during the course of upcoming year. Wonder how she feels about that. Some images.
And then the lakes fishing with dry droppers near, in, and around the reeds. I’m fortunate to be able to sleep anytime anywhere regardless of situation. If I could bottle it and give at away to all those people, primarily women it seems, that have a hard time sleeping it would be my gift to society, but I can’t so……anchored up casting, sometimes backhand as I’ve lost my muscle memory for being a part time lefty, I find casting and waiting dreadfully dreary, a phrase used in my wife’s native Devon quite frequently. In other words I could and did at times drift off until my botero SCREAMED in my good ear from 12” away FEEEESH! Steve K or @Bambooflyguy I’m not, never will be, or wanna be. Some enjoy it, as I’m sure I would had I started 50+ years ago but there is just something about moving water making it more three dimensional in my mind…..however…the results can sometimes be worth while. But no 100 fish days…thankfully. A Chubby on top with various nymphs below specifically a Tellico which I haven’t fished in 20+ years, however……the best dropper by far was a balanced leech about #8, hot orange and black body using Similar seal dubbing.
Overall, for a short notice trip, post hip “revision” of 4 months it was great to be back there. Patagonia has changed but I won’t rate one way or the other as everything has changed. I called my wife from outside the Hospedahje in R/P and had a conversation like she was across the street. Of course it was 90% listening and 10% speaking, trying to anyway. The food was good, the fishing was good, and the silence was deafening. Even better. The driver, guide, music director, etal, was ok also. He had to have his thumb drive inserted so we listened to the same Latin Beat continuously while driving …… kinda hard time having a discussion with someone, me, with a blown out left ear drum, while headed somewhere in a Hilux on a dirt gravel road. But whatever, C’est le vie.
One for @Cabezon. I was not told this as it was hard to understand over the music but I referenced a couple of options and came up with a branch of the Calafate bush/tree where the berries have gone into winter hibernation. Don’t fall, sit, grab, or trip into one of these as extricating yourself may be more painful.
The 150 mile ride back to Esquel was dominated by music…thump..thump..thump, but that was fine. I ended up with what I came for. I believe, correct me if I’m wrong, CS Lewis said “You can’t go back, you can only start over…..etc”. I believe him to have been correct.
Having said prior that I booked an extra two nights in BA, that’s American for Buenos Aires, on my way home I got to walk the Puerto Maduro section, the Presidential Palace area where Buddy Hackett II now resides along with San Telmo. All cool places along with visiting the Parque Mujeres and walking across the Puente Mujeres multiple time. Weather was outstanding. And the US$ ?. Muy bien.
Sadly, for the Argentine people inflation has run amok though I won’t get into that part. Buddy Hackett Duece has instituted some measures that have hit the population hard in the wallet. However if you’re an American tourist and are good with numbers any number of cuervas are available to exchange your US$ for Argentine Pesos. They won’t take anything smaller than a $20 bill but some Benjamins with reap you more benefit if buying in gift stores direct. One thing I can thank Buddy the 2nd for is my steak dinner the night before I left.
24oz Bone In Ribeye done to perfection, fresh sautéed spinach in a broth covered with a melted pecorino cheese with baby potatoes, liter bottle of agua mineral and cheesecake for dessert. Cost? $29 and change $US. I felt bad, but not that bad though I did leave the waiter. $20 bill tip and the maitre’d a $10. Use your CC if you go and don’t want to be bothered changing your money. I also received a tourist discount from Argentina on my Amex card. I heard that may be discontinued now. Can only load 20 so a couple more images to follow next reply. And thanks again for all information gleaned from following @Cabezon. It appears he and his wife are still teachers of the earth.
Thanks for coming along on my trip. Two more boats to deliver and then it’s off to the Green with the wife for our 6 week Dinah Shore See the USA in Your Chevrolet (GMC actually) yearly road trip to the NW this year. Buen’ Dias Pescadors.
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ERRORS IN GRAMMAR PUNCUATION or mizzspllons!
So knowing some individuals who work the area and having that trusty new tool called the internet, along with my Delta and Hilton apps I went to work and came up with a plan. Remembering that @Northern was headed in the direction prior to my departure I reached out and asked if they would walk point and notify me of any nefarious goings on while they were there. A “Will do!” message was received in reply. Perfect, I thought. We’ll touch on that in a bit.
Having told three of the manufacturers and dealers I deliver boats for that I would be MIA for about three weeks in late Feb early March, I received a WTF?, a Why?, and one Where’s That? The reason being that customers who spend $6 Figures the previous year are expecting their Christmas presents, especially in the SE, at this precise moment, delivered to their doorstep wherever that may be along with a check or $$ transfer headed back to point of FOB. I digress, sorry.
Eliminating as much possible mayhem as I could I drove to Atlanta, booked a room, yes Delta/Hilton and no I’m not affiliated in any way except they’ve been my go-to partners for many years……like my wife, only slightly less costly. So late that afternoon of departure for a 9 PM lift off my cell pings…..a message from Delta….”Your Flight XXX Has Been Cancelled” and you have been rescheduled for tomorrow on flight xxx….” OK I say to myself and go to my trusty Hilton app and grab one of the last rooms in a 300+ room hotel for the night. Total time from notification to re-book is maybe 3.5 minutes. Both Delta and Hilton.
Due to an Airline Workers strike in Argentina for the following day Delta has pushed their flights forward. This had been rumored and not unexpected due to the somewhat seemingly dislike of their new President Buddy Hackett II. Now the fun begins. I group text a person in California and a person in Argentina and in less than 5 minutes the logistics are rearranged and confirmed. I then say to myself, why not, what’s wrong with a couple extra days in BA and go back to my Delta app change my return flight for two days later and book a couple nights in Porto Maduro section of BA. Having a couple million Hilton points in hand is money in the bank. If you haven’t tried this Internet thingee you should. It’s cool.
I am picked up at the airport in Esquel bu my driver, guide, and music director (later on that) and finally arrive in the once desolate town of Rio Pico, Chubut Province of Argentina at 10 PM, -2 hours from home time, and it’s dark. No shit! Really? Re-energized by a 30 minute nap on the flight from BA to Esquel I’m ready to roll. What I did notice on the way south from Esquel that Rt 40 was paved all the way and also Rt 62[?] was fully paved from Rt 40 to downtown Rio Pico. Unlike the last time. My teeth remember. I had decided that the Rio Pico area would be home because the last time I was there was 1990 or 91 and arrived there by driving north on Ruta 7 from Coyhaique Chile, north past Manihuales, up the Cisnes River valley to Tapera, once known a La Tapera, and across the pampas to Rt 40 and north in Argentina. Stayed a night in Gobernador Costa at a combination Hotel/Jail/Restaurant where your vehicle was stored in the courtyard and your “room” was a cell, unlocked of course. I remember the Cook, Bailiff, Bartender, Tour Guide person was hilarious that night specifically saying in Spanish: Esperamos que su vehículo duerma bien esta noche.…translated to hope your truck is fine tonight and still there in the morning. Loved the humor.
I’ve been a lot of places in this world, some by design, some sent to by a government who has lost its way from time to time but one of the things I’ve always noticed, more so now than when I was younger was that environment defines the populace no matter how much we try the opposite. I think that is one of the prime reasons why I follow @Cabezon and his posts on flora and fauna. Damn, it and he, is so interesting. Little did I know he was just over the hill on the other side of Lago Palena/Vinttner from where I was located. I felt bad that his weather wasn’t perfect but that’s Chile at times. That specifically is one of the reasons for no trip report for a while as his are sometimes right out of NatGeo.
Patagonia is so big, the Andes are seemingly in your lap and the air so clean and the lane goes on forever. And the people have smiles right out Vanity Fair when acknowledged. OK, end of intro.
Besides the fish, which sometimes are secondary to me when traveling, I wanted to see what changed, beside the influx of us, the American travelogue experts (humor by design).
Downtown Rio Pico 1990?
Downtown Rio Pico 2024:
And my two favorite “rock formations”:
1990
2024:
What I’d always wondered about the rocks was their three dimensional rhomboid shape meaning at one time there must have been under extreme heat and force to have their structure rearranged in that manner. ??? Anyone?
In the 90s we thought we’d take a closer look but a fence and 3 large bulls enclosed decided that option for us was a no go.
The fishing was a combination spring creek, river wading, and lake via rafts, my preference in that order. The two spring creeks that were fished were interesting. Let’s just say they were not “manicured” as some are in the world. Add a 20kt wind onto your casting shoulder, regardless of which way you were facing, and cast to a 3x3’ window on your side of the creek 40’ to 50’ away in some cases and you get it. Results? Let’s say bushes trees 25 and me 12 at the end of six innings. After which it opened up a bit more and I rallied but in the end the bush/tree team won. No images for me but driver guide music director kept taking them. More on that later.
Rivers: A tributary of the Rio Pico, the aril Pico and the Corcovado walk and wade though in the right season I’d float the Corcovado for a solid month if I could.
Rio Pico and Tributary not in that order possibly:
All pretty fish, mostly browns, but we stumbled on a section of the tributary like a jungle with very very narrow lanes that hel at least 3 browns of 30”+ length and spent about 2 hours fishing over them. Fishing a #4 Chubby Chernobyl on a 1X tippet was a hoot using steeple and roll and B&A casts. The music director warned me to back off the drag and if hooked up just lean out point the rod at the fish and get set for a long strategic battle. That never happened as puny 20”-22” browns would come out of nowhere to grab lunch and run. They were fun but we’re actually the reason we knew the big boys were BIG BOYS or GIRLS. I didn’t want to fail to mention that getting into the trib was nearly a rappelling effort. Wished the Music Man had warned me as I would have backpacked my waders and boots in on my back. While I’m at it, Argentina has or at least some parts have a No Felt Sole wading boots restriction. Fine!!! Make the restriction up to the age of 65 and let us geriatrics use our felt sole boats we’ve been using for 50 years. My Weinbrenners have served me well for 20+ years and two resolves. “But they’re hard to get on…the thick leather….” people whine. Soak ‘em in a bucket or pail of water for an hour prior and you’ll be fine!
Streamer fishing (YEAH!) on lakes is interesting and it’s amazing how the wind is both your friend and a fiend. One of the lakes was about an hour drive, closer to Chile than Rio Pico in a setting out of Conde’ Nast. First 2 hours 15kt wind out of the NE, sorry @Cabezon that was probably the beginning of your scuba like fishing, and the fishing for large bows (90%) and browns(10% math major) was good to very good then the little white caps diminished into nowhere, the wind died down, and the catching went south. Ding ding…time to eat. Good meal on the beach followed by 45” siesta then back at it. Wind backup as on que only from the SW this time so we move up lake a bit and we were back attached to fatties, again ‘bows. Flies were basic #6 Orange Beadhead black bodied leeches stripped fast, which fishing the ocean here is not a problem. One fish in particular drew the interest of the chauffeur as it was a female rainbow, obviously with eggs of about 16” or so, a small fish compared to others. He netted the fish looked at it and stripped the eggs back into the water saying the fish’ growth rate would double over the course of the next year at spawning by doing that if it wasn’t eaten by something twice its size during the course of upcoming year. Wonder how she feels about that. Some images.
And then the lakes fishing with dry droppers near, in, and around the reeds. I’m fortunate to be able to sleep anytime anywhere regardless of situation. If I could bottle it and give at away to all those people, primarily women it seems, that have a hard time sleeping it would be my gift to society, but I can’t so……anchored up casting, sometimes backhand as I’ve lost my muscle memory for being a part time lefty, I find casting and waiting dreadfully dreary, a phrase used in my wife’s native Devon quite frequently. In other words I could and did at times drift off until my botero SCREAMED in my good ear from 12” away FEEEESH! Steve K or @Bambooflyguy I’m not, never will be, or wanna be. Some enjoy it, as I’m sure I would had I started 50+ years ago but there is just something about moving water making it more three dimensional in my mind…..however…the results can sometimes be worth while. But no 100 fish days…thankfully. A Chubby on top with various nymphs below specifically a Tellico which I haven’t fished in 20+ years, however……the best dropper by far was a balanced leech about #8, hot orange and black body using Similar seal dubbing.
Overall, for a short notice trip, post hip “revision” of 4 months it was great to be back there. Patagonia has changed but I won’t rate one way or the other as everything has changed. I called my wife from outside the Hospedahje in R/P and had a conversation like she was across the street. Of course it was 90% listening and 10% speaking, trying to anyway. The food was good, the fishing was good, and the silence was deafening. Even better. The driver, guide, music director, etal, was ok also. He had to have his thumb drive inserted so we listened to the same Latin Beat continuously while driving …… kinda hard time having a discussion with someone, me, with a blown out left ear drum, while headed somewhere in a Hilux on a dirt gravel road. But whatever, C’est le vie.
One for @Cabezon. I was not told this as it was hard to understand over the music but I referenced a couple of options and came up with a branch of the Calafate bush/tree where the berries have gone into winter hibernation. Don’t fall, sit, grab, or trip into one of these as extricating yourself may be more painful.
The 150 mile ride back to Esquel was dominated by music…thump..thump..thump, but that was fine. I ended up with what I came for. I believe, correct me if I’m wrong, CS Lewis said “You can’t go back, you can only start over…..etc”. I believe him to have been correct.
Having said prior that I booked an extra two nights in BA, that’s American for Buenos Aires, on my way home I got to walk the Puerto Maduro section, the Presidential Palace area where Buddy Hackett II now resides along with San Telmo. All cool places along with visiting the Parque Mujeres and walking across the Puente Mujeres multiple time. Weather was outstanding. And the US$ ?. Muy bien.
Sadly, for the Argentine people inflation has run amok though I won’t get into that part. Buddy Hackett Duece has instituted some measures that have hit the population hard in the wallet. However if you’re an American tourist and are good with numbers any number of cuervas are available to exchange your US$ for Argentine Pesos. They won’t take anything smaller than a $20 bill but some Benjamins with reap you more benefit if buying in gift stores direct. One thing I can thank Buddy the 2nd for is my steak dinner the night before I left.
24oz Bone In Ribeye done to perfection, fresh sautéed spinach in a broth covered with a melted pecorino cheese with baby potatoes, liter bottle of agua mineral and cheesecake for dessert. Cost? $29 and change $US. I felt bad, but not that bad though I did leave the waiter. $20 bill tip and the maitre’d a $10. Use your CC if you go and don’t want to be bothered changing your money. I also received a tourist discount from Argentina on my Amex card. I heard that may be discontinued now. Can only load 20 so a couple more images to follow next reply. And thanks again for all information gleaned from following @Cabezon. It appears he and his wife are still teachers of the earth.
Thanks for coming along on my trip. Two more boats to deliver and then it’s off to the Green with the wife for our 6 week Dinah Shore See the USA in Your Chevrolet (GMC actually) yearly road trip to the NW this year. Buen’ Dias Pescadors.
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ERRORS IN GRAMMAR PUNCUATION or mizzspllons!
) and seems to help carry my line in a much more dynamic parallel course. More than happy with it. Upgrade performed by Sweetwater Fly Rods, Charlie Armontrout in Covington Va.
