First raft trip

jact55

Life of the Party
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Have you considered storing your raft on some type of cart or dolly to make it at the same height as your hitch attachment?
With a roller bar on the hitch, you could wheel the raft to where the front of the raft is sitting on the roller bar. Hop in the bed of the truck and pull it straight off the cart or dolly into the truck with little to no lifting involved.
SF

Yes, this had been talked about also.

One for at home, truck level.

Then a dolly/cart to take with me. So when possible, I can shuttle it to the water easier.

So much to do lol
 

jact55

Life of the Party
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Just my opinion but get 1 foot oar extensions. Here;s how to calculate the optimum length, and yours are too short.


You can get remnants of plastic sheets (or order others) at a pretty good price at alcobra in Spokane.

Thank you. I will look into both these things.

You talking remnant sheets for suspended floor?

I was surprised how stable the drop stitch floor was....but I weight 135 lbs.
But it's lame having to take the spikes off my boots.
 

Old406Kid

Life of the Party
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I'm going to get some oar rights to help me out. Which it seems they have some benefits to experienced river rafters also.

I might need ore extensions, but more testing needed before I do this. They are 7.5' oars.
You've been very thorough so far so I'm sure you have done some research on oar setup.
Here's one of many links that may be of help. When stuff isn't right it can make alot of unnecessary work.

Also, the Mountain Buzz forum is a good source of info.

Oar Rights...Okay, I'll admit that I'm a user :giggle: but many others will strongly oppose them.
Personally, I like the fact that my oars are always perpindicular to the water without me worrying about it.
 

klq@stl

Steelhead
Oar Rights...Okay, I'll admit that I'm a user :giggle: but many others will strongly oppose them.
Personally, I like the fact that my oars are always perpindicular to the water without me worrying about it.
Great explanation of how to set up oars, length, seat height and tower height from Whitewater Guidebook.
An alternate approach to oar rights:
On my first set of oars, the original owner had sanded a flat spot on the top of each oar handle. This allowed you to feather each oar, but quickly orient them to ensure a full blade stroke using muscle memory of how they fit in your hand.
 
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brownheron

corvus ossifragus
Put the Oar Rights up at the top of your wraps such that when you left the oars hang, they are vertical in the water and act as rudders to keep the raft stable in current. I'd avoid using them as a crutch rowing. If you're taking the time to learn to row on flatwater, they will hold you back on gaining feathering skills. Since you already called out the Red's videos, heres one:

Think about something other than a straight round grip as the previous poster suggested. I recently got a new set of oars with Gilman Grips which you can order as upgrades with Sawyers or added as a retrofit. https://www.gilmangrips.com/
 

Peyton00

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Leaving oars hanging in moving water is asking for trouble.
 

jact55

Life of the Party
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I watched that video last night. And his beginning rowing video also. Seen in the past, but figured it would be good to reflect on them.

It seems that oars in the water with those locks is good. And other time, nah

It took me a minute to get into the habit of putting my oars under my legs instead of leaving them in the water. On a lake, no biggie. River, not good.
I can see situations where I won't want oars under my legs, but don't want them in water.

What are your thoughts on oar rests (think that's what they are called.)
Anyone use those side mount rests to put oars into when doing stuff with your hands?
 

jact55

Life of the Party
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7.5' oars for a boat that size seems really short.

Yeah, I think so.
It's 17" tubes, and 10.5' long.
I want to do one more trip and focus on my spacing and such. But yeah

Shitty deal is they are cataract KBO oars. Smaller diameter (1-5/8" i think). Their extensions are backordered 12-20 weeks. And I have yet to find a small extention other brand that will work.
....guess I'll be good for next year basically if I order now.
 

jact55

Life of the Party
Forum Supporter
You've been very thorough so far so I'm sure you have done some research on oar setup.
Here's one of many links that may be of help. When stuff isn't right it can make alot of unnecessary work.

Also, the Mountain Buzz forum is a good source of info.

Oar Rights...Okay, I'll admit that I'm a user :giggle: but many others will strongly oppose them.
Personally, I like the fact that my oars are always perpindicular to the water without me worrying about it.

Thank you. I'll do the math by this weekend.
I find myself on mountain buzz with Google searches on topics.

I'll spring for the oar rights. I'm not proud, and I am a rookie lol. It's a fit
 

jact55

Life of the Party
Forum Supporter
Nice raft! I had the SRC and I regret selling it. I’m starting to really enjoy my new to me Freestone though. Be safe and enjoy the journey!
View attachment 60376View attachment 60377View attachment 60378

Nice. I almost sprung for that model. Usually a loner on water.
But figured it would be nice having the option of a partner. One of my step sons is getting into fishing, so hoping I can twist him into fly fishing. Expensive sport for a 25 year old kid, or anyone lol.
 

skyriver

Life of the Party
Forum Supporter
Thank you. I will look into both these things.

You talking remnant sheets for suspended floor?

I was surprised how stable the drop stitch floor was....but I weight 135 lbs.
But it's lame having to take the spikes off my boots.
For my Striker, I had an old very heavy duty rubber door mat that fits fairly well on the floor in the driver's area. It's about 3x5' and probably weighs 15-20 lbs so it stays put and protects the floor from my spikes. Cuz, yeah, at my age, the spikes ain't coming out. They perform too well.
Someday, I'll put in a nice form fitted piece of plywood facing up with rubber/foam on the bottom and sides. Until then, the rubber mat is surprisingly stable. I stand up all the time on the lake.
You can pick up new ones on Amazon, Target, Walmart, etc for about $30. I like it because I can take it out real easy and just toss it on the garage floor. In fact, it was my main rubber mat to stand on while at my garage bench. So sometimes it goes right back there.
 

brownheron

corvus ossifragus
For my Striker, I had an old very heavy duty rubber door mat that fits fairly well on the floor in the driver's area. It's about 3x5' and probably weighs 15-20 lbs so it stays put and protects the floor from my spikes. Cuz, yeah, at my age, the spikes ain't coming out. They perform too well.
Someday, I'll put in a nice form fitted piece of plywood facing up with rubber/foam on the bottom and sides. Until then, the rubber mat is surprisingly stable. I stand up all the time on the lake.
You can pick up new ones on Amazon, Target, Walmart, etc for about $30. I like it because I can take it out real easy and just toss it on the garage floor. In fact, it was my main rubber mat to stand on while at my garage bench. So sometimes it goes right back there.
Horse stall mats also work great. Just cut to the shape of your foot area. I have a drop stitch floor in my Maravia that’s firm enough that I haven’t felt the need to add a floor and the stall mats work well to protect it from wear.

I think it was Derek Young who gets credit for that advice, IRC.
 

Peyton00

Life of the Party
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Please explain how what he describes in the video is dangerous.

EDGE and Pro-Locks oar locks are designed to do the same thing described in the video.

I was making a general statement.

Imo....It's not a good idea to leave them hanging in moving water. They can catch on things, spin the boat out of position or into trouble, or pop free and float away.
 

brownheron

corvus ossifragus
I was making a general statement.

Imo....It's not a good idea to leave them hanging in moving water. They can catch on things, spin the boat out of position or into trouble, or pop free and float away.
I think you must be talking about leaving them hanging in the water while moving which I agree is a bad idea The video is demonstrating having them in the water to act as rudders while on anchor - it's just the blades. It's not like they are hanging straight up and down.

I don't think any of the things you describe is going to happen on anchor as long as one doesn't anchor where they shouldn't and the method shown in the video does make the boat more stable while on anchor.
 

jact55

Life of the Party
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Well, work has dominated life. Haven't seen any water for over a month.
Finally got out again this afternoon. Took it to fish lake, which is just down the road from me.
I installed oar rights, and a fly pole rod holder. Those rights made all the difference, I'm not embarrassed. It allowed me to work on my rhythm, steering, and really get my mind around the basics, without having to worry about the depth, and postion of the oars (which i know are also basics lol). I'll worry about that a little later.

Drug around a few flies. Got a bite on a San Juan worm. A monster tiger trout. Sucker was almost touching 6" I bet.
Had a blast.

20230430_161733.jpg20230430_165007.jpg20230430_171224.jpg
 

Paige

Wishing I was fishing the Sauk
I was making a general statement.

Imo....It's not a good idea to leave them hanging in moving water. They can catch on things, spin the boat out of position or into trouble, or pop free and float away.


Non issue with floating blades IMO, but in general prctice a good idea.
 

Fourbtgait

Steelhead
Good for you. Glad to see you got out and about. I haven’t taken my raft out once, decided to reside our house
 
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