Trip Planning for Summer England / Scotland / Ireland in July

[dibling]

Hey y'all. Haven't posted much over here, but was semi-active in prior years over in the bad place. Realize this may be a bit of a shot in the dark, but my wife has a bit of a unique opportunity for a work sabbatical this summer and we are planning a six week trip across UK - > Ireland - > Scandinavia from early July through Mid-August.

I’m planning to negotiate some fly fishing outings and so far haven't had much luck in finding definitive leads on how to approach this thing. We'll have a rental car for Scotland and Ireland so I'm guessing those will be my best options.

Things I'm aware of: As opposed to the states, most (all?) rivers have a club / access fee for daily use. Some lakes have a national license option and no daily fee. Saltwater appears to be the least restrictive from a licensing standpoint. Many beats are operated independently by local clubs and are a bit difficult to break into.

Current itinerary:
July:
[Early July] London -> Bath
[Mid July] Scotland: Edinburgh, Inverness, Isle of Skye (TBD)
[Late July] Ireland: Dublin, Dingle, County Clare
August:
Copenhagen, Oslo
Questions:

• Has anyone fished these countries?
• Are there counties / regions you would suggest where I focus my research on?
• Which Fly Shops / Guide guide experiences have you used?
• Of the rivers that are listed on various blogs (“How to fly fish Scotland” and equivalent), where would you spend time?
• How early do beats book out?

Thanks for any pointers. Future posts will be back to complaining about skunking on the Yak and Pass!

 

[Josh]

I can only speak to Edinburgh. I had a work trip there a few years back and brought my gear so I could slip out for a few mornings.

I fished the Water of Leith both in the city (along the Water of Leith Walkway) and then out of town by Balerno. Both stretches were pretty but I was skunked. Seemed like tough fishing and that was confirmed by the one local I encountered. Perhaps it's better at different times of the year? I did stop by a fly shop to pick up a license (I believe) and a few local flies. That said, it appears you can just print the license out online now: https://www.edinburgh.gov.uk/leisure-sport-culture/fishing-permit

It was a unique experience (for me) to stand there fishing while surrounded by stone buildings many hundreds of years old. But it wasn't great fishing if catching was what you were looking for. Still, it was the first time I had wet a line outside of the USA. So it remains a very cool memory. Thankfully, I did catch my first international fish a week later when visiting relatives in Exmoor, UK.

 

[Chucker]

What are you looking for from the fishing part of the trip? Any particular species, techniques, bucket list items you want to tick off? Do you want to go guided or try to figure it out on your own? There are a lot of options over there, but as you imply they are all more expensive than here, and in general the number/size of fish is smaller.

 

[Josh]

I think @Chucker gives some good points to think about. Are you just looking to be able to wet a line in some new places? Or are you looking to find some significant fishing experiences? Laying out some guidelines will likely help you narrow down some direction.

For me, it was enough to just get to wet a line a few places as the primary purpose for the trip was work and then visiting family. I'd have felt differently if I were planning something solely for myself.

 

[Shawn Seeger]

I don't know anything about it personally, and I am more of a stillwater guy so, have been looking fishing a loch or two.

I will be in Scotland for a guided "family/clan" trip and then have about a week in our own, with a rental car. I am hoping to fish, but if not then shit for next trip.

We loved Scotland on a previous England, Ireland, Scotland trip. And I have wanted to see the Royal Tattoo since I was a kid, so that is part of the "family/clan" trip. I am really stoked about the entire trip!

Here is some information I found about Skye fishing out of Portree.
https://www.trout-salmon-fishing.com/scotland-skye.htm

Portree Angling Association
portreeanglingassociation

And a trip report from @Dave Westburg

https://pnwflyfishing.com/forum/ind...-hebrides-or-lochs-lochs-and-more-lochs.2149/

 

[albula]

I would never pass on an opportunity to fish Norway. Will be returning in July and can't wait. For some DIY info and options this is a good place to start.
https://elveguiden.no/en

 

[dibling]

I think @Chucker gives some good points to think about. Are you just looking to be able to wet a line in some new places? Or are you looking to find some significant fishing experiences? Laying out some guidelines will likely help you narrow down some direction.

For me, it was enough to just get to wet a line a few places as the primary purpose for the trip was work and then visiting family. I'd have felt differently if I were planning something solely for myself.

Great call. This sounds silly, but I'm most interested in the vibes / scenery / wet lines. Would it be great to lip something in the old country? Totally. But it isn't required by any means. It will be quiet time away from the fam (don't tell them I wrote that part).

 

[dibling]

What are you looking for from the fishing part of the trip? Any particular species, techniques, bucket list items you want to tick off? Do you want to go guided or try to figure it out on your own? There are a lot of options over there, but as you imply they are all more expensive than here, and in general the number/size of fish is smaller.

It depends on how accessible things would be generally. If I only had one day to get out, I'd probably look toward a guided option, but otherwise I skew DIY.

 

[M_D]

The only thing I have to add is give serious thought to driving over there. If you've done it before and are comfortable doing so, great...read no further. If you haven't, I suggest really doing some research to figure out if there are alternative ways for you to get around....bus, train, hire a car & driver, taxi, Uber...whatever.

I'm a retired cop. I pretty much drove for my entire career...doing EVOC every year and all that stuff. I rented a car in Scotland for 3 weeks this past September and I don't know if I would ever do it again. Having a private vehicle allowed my wife and I to go essentially wherever we wanted and we saw some beautiful things but it was also a HUGE stressor and at times sucked the fun out of the day.

Admittedly I can be kinda high strung....knowing this I prepared by watching a couple hours of Scottish driving instruction videos (especially for their roundabouts), purchased a detailed road map, studied/familiarized myself with their many road signs, spent lots of time on Google Street view, and had a navigation system in the car....and it still sucked big time at times!

Their roads are so friggin narrow AND there's often no shoulder. It was like driving down a tight alley at 30 to 50 mph...on the wrong side of the roadway... while trying to maneuver past a fire truck going in the opposite direction.

Thinking back on it, the biggest help would have been having a navigator....someone else watching ahead for where to turn, read the signs, etc. while I was simply trying to stay in my lane and not hit anything. Even with the navigation system, there were times when it was like 'Turn left WHERE?????....FAAAHHHHHHKKKKKK!!!

I love my wife dearly but she can't read a map to save her life and she's a horrible navigator. I thought she'd rise to the occasion while there but it didn't happen. Sheese, there were a few instances where I told her to close her eyes and/or look at the floor because she was blowing my stress level over the top. We kind of laugh about it now but how we didn't get a divorce while there, I'll never know.

Perhaps others will tell you I'm a big weenie and you'll have no problems. I hope so. Or maybe your wife/partner is a solid wingman/navigator, then lucky you....but if not then truly look into your options.

Maybe you'll find there aren't any good options (Like I did)...then go for it and have fun. Heck after 6 weeks you'll be a salty veteran by the time you leave, but I will honestly tell you that after 21 days I was never so happy to drop off a rental car.

Have fun whatever you decide and share a trip report

 

[Greg Armstrong]

The only thing I have to add is give serious thought to driving over there. If you've done it before and are comfortable doing so, great...read no further. If you haven't, I suggest really doing some research to figure out if there are alternative ways for you to get around....bus, train, hire a car & driver, taxi, Uber...whatever.

I'm a retired cop. I pretty much drove for my entire career...doing EVOC every year and all that stuff. I rented a car in Scotland for 3 weeks this past September and I don't know if I would ever do it again. Having a private vehicle allowed my wife and I to go essentially wherever we wanted and we saw some beautiful things but it was also a HUGE stressor and at times sucked the fun out of the day.

Admittedly I can be kinda high strung....knowing this I prepared by watching a couple hours of Scottish driving instruction videos (especially for their roundabouts), purchased a detailed road map, studied/familiarized myself with their many road signs, spent lots of time on Google Street view, and had a navigation system in the car....and it still sucked big time at times!

Their roads are so friggin narrow AND there's often no shoulder. It was like driving down a tight alley at 30 to 50 mph...on the wrong side of the roadway... while trying to maneuver past a fire truck going in the opposite direction.

Thinking back on it, the biggest help would have been having a navigator....someone else watching ahead for where to turn, read the signs, etc. while I was simply trying to stay in my lane and not hit anything. Even with the navigation system, there were times when it was like 'Turn left WHERE?????....FAAAHHHHHHKKKKKK!!!

I love my wife dearly but she can't read a map to save her life and she's a horrible navigator. I thought she'd rise to the occasion while there but it didn't happen. Sheese, there were a few instances where I told her to close her eyes and/or look at the floor because she was blowing my stress level over the top. We kind of laugh about it now but how we didn't get a divorce while there, I'll never know.

Perhaps others will tell you I'm a big weenie and you'll have no problems. I hope so. Or maybe your wife/partner is a solid wingman/navigator, then lucky you....but if not then truly look into your options.

Maybe you'll find there aren't any good options (Like I did)...then go for it and have fun. Heck after 6 weeks you'll be a salty veteran by the time you leave, but I will honestly tell you that after 21 days I was never so happy to drop off a rental car.

Have fun whatever you decide and share a trip report

What he said… I experienced the same.

My kids are able to drive and navigate there quite well though. Suppose it’s easier when you’re a bit younger.

I fished a loch in Scotland for a morning. We were later in the summer with warm water and I got skunked. Rowing my wife around with in a little wooden skiff with an ancient, picturesque castle on the shore was well worth it though.

I think @davewestberg has had some successful trips over there. Might give him a shout.

 

[Greg Armstrong]

.

 

[Roper]

I can’t speak to the fishing but if you imbibe in Dingle visit the distillery and West Kerry Brewing. You’ll not be disappointed.

 

[Josh]

Ehhhhh, driving wasn't that bad.

I did it on a trip over there with the family. Sure, the roads are tight and it's a bit weird figuring out stuff like roundabouts and who has the right-of-way from the other side of the road (and car), but you figure it out. The worst of it was right after we picked up the car and everyone was tired from jetlag and a little stressed trying to figure out the road and how to get where we were going. But once we survived that stress, it was fine. You get used to it pretty quick.

That said, I didn't have to try and drive in any big city traffic or on the motorways.

 

[M_D]

Ehhhhh, driving wasn't that bad.

I did it on a trip over there with the family. Sure, the roads are tight and it's a bit weird figuring out stuff like roundabouts and who has the right-of-way from the other side of the road (and car), but you figure it out. The worst of it was right after we picked up the car and everyone was tired from jetlag and a little stressed trying to figure out the road and how to get where we were going. But once we survived that stress, it was fine. You get used to it pretty quick.

That said, I didn't have to try and drive in any big city traffic or on the motorways.

Oh man….I must just be getting old.

By the way, get outa my yard

 

[Roper]

Rent the smallest car you need to haul your stuff…two trips there opened my eyes.

 

[Dave Westburg]

It's all private fishing over there so you need to reserve your river beat or purchase access from the landowner to fish a loch. Most of my fishing has been on hill lochs in the outer hebrides. There's something magical about walking through the heather to a small loch where you can catch brown trout from the bank without having trees to snag your backcast. Portree angling controls access to 21 hill lochs. Am sure they'd sell you a permit.

Skye Ghillie could take you hill loch or sea trout fishing. Sea trout are like out coastal cutts only harder fighting.

A word about walk in-fishing in Scotland. Most of the time it's windy which is a good thing. If the wind dies they have small biting midges which will drive you to distraction. Skin so soft is a good repellent.

Size 10-14 wet flies are the ticket buy the browns are always looking up and will take dries. Another thing is don't wade deep in the loch. The browns hand out of the shore. Often you don't even need to get your feet wet.

 

[Dave Westburg]

Pictures of Scottish hill lochs...Bring a good rain jacket.

 

[Josh]

It's all private fishing over there so you need to reserve your river beat or purchase access from the landowner to fish a loch.

Just to clarify, it's not ALL private fishing in the UK. But it sure seems like a significant majority is. Especially the more famous water.

That said, the water in Edinburgh and the water in Exmoor that I fished both only required a permit that was either free or cost a couple bucks. I didn't have to deal with private landowners or reserve a section of water. I picked up one at a fly shop and the other at the local tourism office. Neither took more than 5 minutes. Was easier than dealing with getting a WDFW license by far.

 

[East Coaster]

For a while, I was visiting Ireland for work a couple times a year. On one trip, I was going to be there over a weekend in June/July and made arrangements to fish near Dublin. Back about 20 years ago, Ireland was promoting its fly fishing opportunities and there were always a couple of booths at the big flyfishing show in NJ. I got info from them and contacted them to get a license for a DIY day on the Kells Blackwater. I didn't want to haul my stuff over there since I was traveling to Germany next (and wouldn't have time to fish there) so the fee I paid (which was quite reasonable) included use of waders, a rod and reel (I took a box of my own flies). When I met my contact to pick up my gear, he gave me a hand-drawn map with access points clearly marked. Caught a few native, wild browns on a very rainy day (I was prepared for drizzle, but got downpours at times). The river is heavily spring-influenced, so it stayed fairly clear with fishable current despite the rain. I was used to driving over there, so that wasn't a problem. Stayed at a nice old inn nearby (food and Guinness were always a treat in Ireland). I can't say for sure if this is who I used, but it looks familiar:

The Kells Blackwater | Fishing in Ireland - Catch the unexpected

fishinginireland.info

Kells Anglers

kellsanglers.com

 

[Matt B]

Just to clarify, it's not ALL private fishing in the UK. But it sure seems like a significant majority is. Especially the more famous water.

That said, the water in Edinburgh and the water in Exmoor that I fished both only required a permit that was either free or cost a couple bucks. I didn't have to deal with private landowners or reserve a section of water. I picked up one at a fly shop and the other at the local tourism office. Neither took more than 5 minutes. Was easier than dealing with getting a WDFW license by far.

It was also apparently fishless water though.

In any case, given the OP’s itinerary, I’d be focusing on fishing in Norway. But I seem to be a sucker for Scandanavian fly fishing media a la Jazz and Fly Fishing and Rolf Nylinder’s YouTube stuff.